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 11-15-2006, 11:37 Post: 136940
Peters

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  Chainsaw sharpeners

I guess I am the odd man out. I carry round files and a flat in my back pocket of my falling pants and sharpen or take down the rakers when needed. I normally sharpen every tank. I have been doing it this way for 30 years.
The Husky or Stihl file handles have the correct angle on the bezel. I sit over the saw and just eye it up. One trick is to count the number of strokes of your file and place the same on every tooth and both sides. This helps to keep everything even.
If you rock the saw then you need to take down the teeth on both sides to get the teeth back in shape.
I normally use the chains down to the last nub of a tooth. Which is not technically correct, but its the scotts in me. What can I say.
I bought a gauge at one point but found it just slowed me down and I can keep as true by eye.






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 11-15-2006, 12:02 Post: 136945
Peters

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  Chainsaw sharpeners

Here is the Oregon guide although it does not really tell you how to do it by eye it is essentually the same. It would be difficult to describe all the steps and the adjustments you make to true up the chain here. Read the guide first.
I cut with 36" bars in the west coast for years so if you did not know how to file you did not get much work done. We carried a spare chain, but this was mostly protection against breaking one.






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 11-16-2006, 15:52 Post: 137009
Peters

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  Chainsaw sharpeners

We dried hickory at one time in Ont with no problem. Might be the rate of drying and the straightness of the grain. There are different species of cotton wood. I have only cut the stuff on the BC coast. Basically it rots as it falls and dry it weighs as much paper. Incidently it burns about as fast. You would need about 15 cord of that stuff to equal one cord of anything else.






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